Collar



Oct. 27, J. M. VAN HEUSEN COLLAR Filed July 23, 1921 1 ,111. man

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INVENTOR A TTORNE Y;

Patented Oct. 27, 1925.

' UNITED STATES c evic s JOHN MANNING VAN REUBEN; OF BOSTON,MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNORWDO'QVA'JY HEUSEN PRODUCTS, INC. A CORBORATIONOFDELAWA'RE.

- COLLAR.

Application filed J u1y"23,'f1921. Serial No. 486,934;

To all whom it ma y concern:

"Be it knownthat I, J 01m MANNING VAN HnUsnN, a citizen of the UnitedStates, residing at Boston, infthecounty of Suffolk,

5 State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in "Collars; and I do hereby-declarethe following to be afull, clear, and exact description ofthe invention, such as will enableothersskilled .in the art to whichit appertainsto make and use the same.

This invention relatesto improvements in .soft folding or turn downcollars "made up of heavy .fabric such as multiply interwoven fabricwoven in a single piece and provided with a weakened edge fold portionor edge fold portion of increased flexibility, that is, an edge foldportion woven in the fabric at which the collar will normally tend tofold.

According to the; present invention, the edge fold portion is made byweaving the fabric in a folded condition, so to speak, that is, so thatthe portions of the fabric that go: to make up the neckband and turndown portion of the collarrespectively, are woven in much the samerelative position to each other that they are in the finished collarwhen folded, and so tha'tthe normal 30 shape of the edge fold portion ofthe fabric approximates that of the folded collar.

'lhefabric-can be woven so that the portions thereof on the two-sidesofthe edge fold :portion may be the same length, but it isniuch moreadvantageous to weave the fabric so that the portion on one side oftheedge fold portion is woven longer than the other, so that the fabricof which the collar is made will notonly tend to assume a foldedcondition, but willalso tend to assume a curvilinear shape, and so thatthe turn down portion of the collar will-not be too close tothenecliband portion wheirthe collar is worn, that is, so thatthere-shall be room for free play of the neck-tie between the neckbandand turn i down portions of the collar. When the collar is made fromsuch a fabric, in the manner hereinafter i described, the collar will beshaped so'that it will normally tendto assume a folded curvilinearshape.

The fabric of whichthe collars are made is multiple-ply interwovenfabric. of suflicient thickness and stiffness co-present a smoothappearance withouti'flimsiness. The

Fig. 2 is air-enlarged sectional 'viewof the edge fold portion of the'collar ;.'and

Fig. is a sectional 'viewwofthe' fabri showing how itmaybewoven.

The collar illustratedis made up ofthe neckband portion 11 andfoldingior turn down portion 2, the neckband having the usual end tabs,.one of which is illustrated at 3 and is provided withthe usual button-Fig. 2 illustrates the normal form. of the fabric of which the collarismade. That is, the'l fabric is woven so tha'tthe outerply or plies?are longer than the inner .ply at the edge fold portion of the collar.In other words, the neckband andthe folding portions 1 and 2 of thefabric come together at a relatively sharp angle approximating thatotthe angle of the neekband and turn downportion of the collarwhenworn... It

will thus be noted'that in Fig. Q'the outer ply of the two-ply fabricis. longerthan the inner ply at the fold portion of the collar indicatedat 5. Asa resu1t,'the collar fabric aud th e collar made therefrom foldmore readilyat the fold portion thusprovided, giving, in effect, aweakened fold at this point. r v

One method of weaving the collar fabric is illustrated diagrammaticallyin' Fig. 3. The fabric illustrated in this figure is a flat tubularfabric with the upper and lower portions of the fabric coming togetherjat a sharp angle at their outer edges 8. In the particular form shown inFig. 3 the "lower fabric 6 isstraight in cross-section and the upperfabric 7, is raised somewhat at its. central portion. In Weaving thefabric, the fabric canrbe woven as a continuous fabric,

that is, as a flattubular fabric, with n-ormal section suchasthatillustrated in Fig. 3, or even Wltlltlifi upper and lower portionsdistance from the point at which the cloth is formed by the heating upaction of the lay beam, .and the cut edges. and intermediate portion ofthe fabric 7 can then be pulled at a slight-lyfaster rate than the lowerportion 6 of the tubular fabric, so that the portion 7 will .be wovenlonger at the middle, that is,'near the point 9, thanit is atthe foldportion 8. The fabric can be :woven progressively longer from the foldportion 8 to the central portion at which it is cut at 9. Similarly thelower fabric 6 can be woven progressively shorter .from the edge foldportion 8 to the central portion indicated at 10, and the fabric can becut at 10 at a short distance from the point where the fabric is formed,to permit this decrease in length of the fabric; or the portion 6 can bewoven progressively shorter from the fold portion 8 to the point 10 andthe portion 7 can "be woven pro gressively longer from the fold portionto the point 9. In order to do this both the upper and lower portions ofthe tubular fabric may be cut at the central portions '9 and 10 thereof.The folded fabric comprising the portions 6 and 7 on one side of the cuttube may then be opened out flat and passed over a conical take up rollwhich draws the warp threads on one side of the fabric faster than thewarp threads on the other side, and the speed at which the said warpthreads are drawn through will vary progressively from one extremity 10of the unfoldedfabric to the other extremity 9.

' Similarly the other half of the tubular fabric may be passed overanother conical take up roll in order that one side of the fabric willbe woven longer than the other. In

this way the fabric is woven in a curvilinear form so thatthe collarmade therefrom will have 'a curvilinear set. Also the edge fold )ortion8 bein woven ina folded osition D will tend to remain in that positionand W111 provlde a natural fold portion in the collar.

When the fabric has been woven in the manner above described the collarblank can be cut therefrom, and the edge of the col- .lar blank may beprovided with a suitable binding, for example, an edge binding such asdescribed in my prior Patent No. 1,254,294. When'the buttonholes arethen made in the fabric the collar is finished.

Inasmuch as the fabric is Woven with a normal position of the neckbandand fold ing portion thereof approximating that of the folded collarwhen woven, it will be evident that the collar will naturally tendweaving may be modified at the edge fold portion, to further promote thetendency of the collar to fold at such portion as well as to promote theunfolding of the fabric to produce a fabric which is more or less flatin its unfolded form.

When, in addition, the fabric is woven with the turn down portion of thecollar longer than the neckband portion, the collar will, as abovepointed out, normally tend to assume a curvilinear shape as well as afolded shape, although the collar fabric may still be flat orapproximately so.

lVhen the fabric is woven inthe manner above described and is out alongthe central portion thereof at 9 and 10, the two portions of the fabricthus fori'ued can both be used for the making of collars. That is, thefabric is a double fabric which, for every length equivalent to thelength of a collar, furnishes material for two collars.

The different layers or plies of the multiply inter-woven fabric may bemade of different material, for example, the outer ply may be made of afiner or more expensive material. So also, the collars may 'beconstructed of different shapes and designs as will be readilyunderstood. It will also be evident that, where the fold portion iscurvilinear, that is, when the folding portion is woven longer than theneckb-and portion, an increased or decreased curvilinear effect can beobtained.

The edge fold portion of the fabric may or may not be interwoven. If theinterweaving is omitted at the edge fold ortion, this will somewhatmodify the folding properties of the collar fabric and of the collarsmade therefrom, but the collar will, still tend to fold at such edgefold portion, much the same as when the edge fold portion, as well asthe remainder of the fabric is interwoven.

I claim:

1. In a folding or turn down collar made of multiple ply interwovenfabric in which the neckband and turn down portions thereof are woven infolded position.

2. A folding or turn down collar made up o. A folding or turn downcollar made up of a neckband portion, a turn down portion,

and an edge fold portion of multiple ply interwoven fabric and havingthe inner ply of the fabric at the edge fold portion woven shorter thanthe outer ply.

4:. A folding or turn collar made of one piece of multiple plyinterwoven fabric comprising a neckband portion, a turn down portion andan edge fold portion, with the outer ply of the edge fold portion wovenlonger than the inner ply thereof so that the collar tends to assume afolded position, and with the turn down portion woven longer than theneckband portion.

5. The method of producing a collar fabric which comprises weaving amultiple ply interwoven fabric in a folded shape approrimating that ofthe folded collar and cutting the collar from the fabric thus woven.

6. A foldable article of wearing apparel made of woven integral fabriccomprising an outer and an inner ply, some of the warp threads of theouter ply being interwoven with the weft of the outer ply to produce anarea of fold of an augmented warp tending to assume a natural bend, andthe weft threads of the inner ply beneath the same tying and confiningsaid augmented warp at the fold area.

7. A foldable article of wearing apparel made of woven integral fabriccomprising at least two plies, there being on the outer surface of thefold area thereof, when the article is laid flat, a bulged or convexedzone which gives the said article a tendency to fold at and along saidbulged or convexed zone.

8. A foldable article of wearing apparel made of woven integral fabriccomprising at least two plies, there being, when said article is laidflat, a bulged or convexed zone on the outer surface of the fold areathereof, but not on the inner surface of said fold area, whereby thesaid article has a tendency to fold at and along said bulged or convexedzone.

9. A folding or turn-down collar made up of a neckband portion and aturn-down portion of multiple ply interwoven fabric woven integral witheach other, said fabric being so woven that the collar tends normally toassume a semi-folded position with the upper edge of the neckbandportion and the upper edge of the turn-down portion at an angle to eachother, and thus forming a line along which the collar naturally folds.

10. A folding or turn down collar made up of a neckband portion and aturn-down portion of multiple ply interwoven fabric woven integral witheach other, said fabric being so woven that the collar tends normally toassume a semi-folded position with the upper edge of the neckbandportion and the upper edge of the turn-down portion at an angle to eachother, and thus forming a line along which the collar naturally folds,the turn-down portion being woven longer than the neckband portion.

11. A folding or turn down collar made up of a neckband portion and aturn-down portion of multiple ply interwoven fabric united by an edgefold portion of which the weft threads of the outer ply will be undergreater tension when the fabric is. folded and the weft threads of theinner ply under greater tension when the fabric is unfolded.

12. A folding or turn down collar made up of a neckband portion and aturn-down portion of multiple ply interwoven fabric united by an edgefold portion of which the weft threads of the outer ply will be undergreater tension when the fabric is folded and the weft threads of theinner ply under greater tension when the fabric is unfolded, and withthe turn down portion woven longer than the neckband portion.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature.

JOHN MANNING VAN HEUSEN.

